FTM: The Evolution of Underwear

Firstly, whoever thinks it's really funny to turn around the sign post for the FTM... who sent us round in several circles.... you are hilarious! Pat on the back for you.

We eventually found the FTM, which was somehow unmissable with it's pink and orange exterior.  It was founded by Zandra Rhodes in 2003, "born out of her passion and desire to inspire, support and develop" those who want to work within the fashion industry.  The current exhibition on display is Undercover: The Evolution of Underwear.  This was a celebration of the role of underwear and the way it has shaped and defined women for centuries.  Having evolved from a prime function of supporting and containing a woman, it is interesting to see how it has become a significant means of obtaining the desired fashionable figure, as well as correlating with trends in outerwear and becoming a fashion "must have."  The collection documented how bra design reflects social, cultural and economic changes and how it has become such an iconic garment during the 20th century.

Underwear has the power to liberate or oppress a wearer.  It can become scandalous and seductive, emotive in nature.  A woman is not restricted by age or fashion rules and protocols - preference being born out of state of mind.  Something that I found most interesting is how it explained how a pattern or use of colour can radically change the perception and personality of a garment.  The Agent Provocateur piece was a great example of this, showing pastel colours which convey femininity but the addition of the embroided cherry motif changes the context and creates a cheeky feel.  Other examples showed how Black signifies control and seduction, and how white represents purity and innocence - typically bridal underwear.  

The exhibition had a boudoir theme and I loved this asthetic.  It provoked a suitable feel, with soft use of music, lighting and colour to create a definite feminine vibe.

I also loved how it began with a timeline which focused on female social events from 1900 to present day, a few from the list:

• 1926: Coco Chanel introduced the little black dress
  
• 1975: Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren rename their shop SEX, producing bondage and fetish inspired garments, becoming synonymous with the Punk movement.
  
• 1998: The pilot for Sex And The City goes to air, launching four individual fashion icons for the noughties.
  

The advertising and marketing of underwear featured in this exhibition though it only included one or two examples.  I would have loved it if there had been more!  

Wonderbra and Agent Provocateur campaigns were briefly mentioned, amongst some much older campaigns (above).  The most described and interesting was Elle Mcpherson's AW 2005 'Intimate Stories.'  The posters show the model positioned as if you were glimpsing into her  private world.  She is surrounded by possessions that may indicate her personality and the main concept with this campaign is for the story to come from the beholder.  Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Elton John were just some of the stars who contributed to the writing of this ad series.  I wish I had got some pics of these, can't find any online :(

I also think it's worth mentioning that the free exhibition leaflet was beautifully designed and informative, opening out into a Lana Turner poster!  All in all, an interesting trip and now that I know where it is I will probably visit future exhibitions.